This is a sample of our video that shows you how to install this convertible top. We show you how to do the convertible roof replacement, broken down into a series of small steps. It includes the mysterious removal and reinstallation of the rear window. Convertible top replacements can be expensive. Don't pay high a convertible top installation cost to replace your top. You can buy the complete convertible installation direction video on DVD at for $24.95. The full video is extremely detailed and designed for the DIY individual.
Do it yourself and save money, do it for others and make money.
1990-2005 MAZDA MIATA CONVERTIBLE TOP 2 Piece Factory Style - Cabrio Vinyl - Non Zippered Heated Glass Window This convertible top is the Miata original factory 2 piece design with deck seams and overlapping quarter panels. It includes pre-punched plastic retainers to ease installation.
Manufactured using premium 38 oz. Cabrio Vinyl manufactured for that original look and feel.
This is the same weight and grain found on the original Miata convertible tops. It is a two-ply composite made of PVC cabrio grain and a 100% polyester lining fabric, which is superior in strength, durability and flexibility to standard cotton backing convertible tops. Optional Factory Installed Rain Rail We offer both designs either with or without a rain rail. A rain rail is a U-shaped, molded ABS plastic piece that attaches to the rear bottom of the convertible top. It directs any water collected, out drain holes to keep it from entering your interior cabin and trunk. Unless your top is leaking, you may not a new rain rail, however, there are good reasons you should consider getting one anyway.
There is a significant amount of time and labor involved to drill out the old rain rail and reinstall it on a new top properly - without any wrinkles. If you are doing it yourself, and are sure your existing rain rail is in good shape then you can save some money by purchasing a new top without the rain rail, but if your rain rail is brittle or cracked it will leak and cause problems. We offer the option to add a factory installed rain rail. We'll professionally install the rain rail to the convertible top before shipping. This only adds one day to the delivery at most, but may be done the same day. Download a Do It Yourself Installation Guide We highly recommend a professional install your convertible top, but if you want to do it yourself we have detailed Installation instructions Included as a PDF download when you complete your order. Download the guide from the order complete page or by going to your account.
Need It Fast? We generally have plenty of stock of these these Miata tops and can ship on the same day or within 24 hours. If, by chance, they are not in stock, we can have your order quickly manufactured and shipped direct to you within three days. WINDOW Includes a new tinted DOT approved glass window with embedded defroster wiring. The window is bonded to the convertible top using an advanced window bonding system that is guaranteed to not fail for 5-years. There is no piping or stitching around the window visible and no unsightly heat-seal press marks. TOPPING MATERIAL Manufactured using premium 38 oz.
Cabrio Vinyl manufactured by Haartz for that original look and feel. This is the same weight and grain found on the original Miata convertible tops. It is a two-ply composite made of PVC cabrio grain and a cotton lining fabric. PRODUCT FEATURES.
First Quality Cabrio Vinyl just like your original Miata. Precision cutting with automated computer guided Gerber cutting equipment. Stitched matching colors using the finest bonded polyester threads. DOT approved Glass Window with embedded defroster wiring. Heat-sealed seams for added strength and durability. Plastic retainer attachments that have pre-punch holes lined up to mounting points.
5 Year manufacturer's warranty to original owner. 100% GUARANTEED to fit perfectly Out of the Box. Price: $39.00 Add 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful: Miata Soft Top May 16, 2017 Reviewer: Anonymous Person from Bowling Green, KY United States Fit like a glove, instructions could have been a little better, but thank you youtube. Seems to be good quality. Was this review helpful to you? 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful: Miata 2002 soft top replacement December 26, 2016 Reviewer: Eddy del Rio from San Antonio, TX United States Having no experience doing THIS kind of job, it took me roughly 3x the estimated time. The installed Rain Rail seems functionally equivalent, though not of the same stiff plastic of the OME/factory one.
The directions could have been more developed - the photos where often off by one form their descriptor/title. The side straps above the window portion that screw to the frame were poorly sewn and the drivers side came off with a mild pull (it should have been folded and sewn further from it's own edge. Most importantly, I noticed at the end of the project that the product sent me did not have an inner canvas panel surrounding the glass window interior as did the original and the.product picture.
shown in the installation instructions. Having said that, it looks beautiful! It was a tuff job for me, but I'm hoping it functions as well as it looks (is water tight).
Parts of the Job require two people, and closing it the first time requires 2-3 people. Was this review helpful to you?
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful: Nice top November 30, 2016 Reviewer: Ernie from Albuquerque, NM United States The top arrived within a week. I installed it by myself following there instructions and taking lots of iPhone pick of the old top. Got it on in around 8 hours and it looks great. Just like when the car was new!
Was this review helpful to you? 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful: Excellent top for the money September 26, 2016 Reviewer: Myron Bullerwell from Medford, OR United States I installed this top myself with perfect results, mind you I have many years experience working with various vehicles. To the first timer or amateur this could prove somewhat difficult but not impossible if you take lots of pictures plus spend the extra money and have the rain gutter pre installed definitely worth it when your all done it helps the car look 5 years younger. Was this review helpful to you? 1 of 1 people found the following review helpful: new top May 16, 2016 Reviewer: Anonymous Person from new hampshire Just a note to say how pleased we are with our new top from Auto Tops Direct.
Top arrived on schedule, instalation was as described, the customer service is great. I rate this comapny A, I was a bit nervous buying a top on line, but I read reviews and thought I would give it a try and I'm glad I did. Thanks for the great product and support.
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Mazda Miata, 'Easy Install', One-Piece Convertible Top Key Features:. Quality: Made to Mazda specs, 100% fit guarantee.
Original Configuration: Two pieces: top and window. Original Factory Material: Cabrio vinyl. Original Window: Plastic or glass window. Original Colors: Black & Mazda Tan. Alternate Materials: Haartz Stayfast Canvas. Package Specials: Our Best Buy Miata convertible top packages include a top and everything you need it install it! You get hold down cables, professional-grade contact cement, and a profusely illustrated convertible top manual, which walks you through your Miata top installation, beginning to end.
Shop with confidence: 5 year manufacturer warranty. Has a canvas outer layer and a preshrunk cotton inner layer, the two are bonded with and separated by a butyl rubber core. This core makes it a premium choice over any vinyl topping. Often known as, this construction has an acrylic or acrylic/polyester exterior cloth (the facing), an elastomeric or rubber combining film, and a backing (lining) cloth. Richer looking than vinyl. Almost 2x as durable as Vinyl.
More color options available under custom tops link. Comes with a 5 year manufacturer warranty. Has a canvas outer layer and a preshrunk cotton inner layer, the two are bonded with and separated by a butyl rubber core. This core makes it a premium choice over any vinyl topping. Often known as, this construction has an acrylic or acrylic/polyester exterior cloth (the facing), an elastomeric or rubber combining film, and a backing (lining) cloth.
Richer looking than vinyl. Almost 2x as durable as Vinyl. More color options available under custom tops link.
Comes with a 5 year manufacturer warranty. We can evaluate your existing convertible top motor pump and if its 'core' is in good shape we can return it to 'like new' condition. We service the whole motor section of the unit: recoiling, insulating and cleaning. We test the rewound unit to make sure it is in proper working order before returning to you.
If you do want your motor rebuilt, simply click 'Add to Cart' at the right. (You would pay for it just as though you were ordering a part.) We will then send you a prepaid UPS shipping label. Properly box it up (we recommend putting it in a plastic bag as they can leak) and drop it off at a UPS store or the UPS counter in any Staples store. If your motor cannot be repaired, you'll get a refund or you can put this purchase toward the price of a new motor. We also sell a Gasket and 'O' Ring seal kit (listed separately) for any 1955 and up pumps that are leaking.
Wolfsteins Tonneau Cover Cleaner. Exclusively Formulated for Fabric and Vinyl Tonneau Covers. Safely Removes the Toughest Soils and Stains.
Will Not Harm Truck Finish, Metal, Plastic, Rubber or Wood Finishes. Anti-Oxidant, Low pH, No Bleach Formula Leaves No Residue. Environmentally Friendly & Biodegradable. Non-Toxic. Endorsed by Roll N Lock - Leader In Retractable Truck Cover Technology Wolfsteins Tonneau Cover Protectant. Exclusively Formulated for Exterior/Interior Commercial Vinyl Products.
Contains NO Silicone Oils or Petroleum Distillates. Patented Formula Repels Dust, Grease, Dirt and the Growth of Mildew. Contains UV Blockers. Can Be Used On All Vinyl Products Without Streaking.
Endorsed by Roll N Lock - Leader In Retractable Truck Cover Technology - - - $29.95. 1989-04 Mazda Miata, Convertible Top Wind Deflector:. The simple goal is to help you enjoy your convertible even more with less wind blast and more fun. Our wind deflectors are designed specifically for your convertible, and are proven to decrease the back draft by up to 75%. Below is the Time, Difficulty and Tools required for the first installation, after that the wind deflector goes in and out of your car in under One Minute. Fast, easy and painless to install.
Drive Your Convertible with the top down more. Enjoy Listening to the radio or have a conversation.
30 Day Money Back Guarantee. 1 year warranty. Why do I want a Mazda Miata Easy Install Convertible Top? Our 'Easy Install' Miata tops take the usual do-it-yourself installation and make it much easier! We have written a very detailed illustrated do-it-yourself installation manual to take you through your own Miata top installation. These tops have been designed to facilitate easy installation without compromising the integrity and the durability of the completed top. We have eliminated the zipper, used to open the dealer and dealer-replica tops.
We have provided a sealed-in window, which comes in plastic or glass. The top can be lowered without the need to manage a zipper above the window. We have also simplified the attachment of the top at the rear pillars (the area behind the side windows). This design had been extensively field tested, through hundreds of tops that we have sold over the years. We've incorporated tweaks, based on our field experience. The result is an economical, easy-to-install convertible top that will give years of use.
There is no stapling or sewing involved in the installation of this top. Some contact cement work is required. Bolts must be installed, a couple of screws and also either aluminum pop rivets or sheet metal screws at the rear pillars.
Velcro attachment in selected areas further simplifies matters. New cables must be riveted in place with a pair of aluminum pop rivets.
Our manual even has a tutorial on applying pop rivets. All steps are covered in the profusely illustrated installation manual. Do I Need New Hold Down Cables?
We strongly recommend using a pair of new hold down cables with stainless-steel end plates. These replace the old plastic tab plates. For the most savings, consider one of our package specials, which include the top (in your choice of fabric), a pair of cables, a half pint of trimmer contact cement, and the installation manual.
How do I choose a Mazda Miata Convertible Top Fabric? Mazda Miata convertible tops are offered in two fabrics: Cabrio Grain Vinyl and Haartz Stayfast Canvas. Here's what you need to know about each one: Cabrio Grain Vinyl: Our most popular Miata top is the original Cabrio Vinyl, which comes in original Mazda Miata convertible top colors.
Cabrio Grain Vinyl is a two-ply composite vinyl with a distinct pigskin outer grain and cotton inner lining. This reliable vinyl is original to the Mazda Miata, the Mercury Capri, and the Volkswagen Cabriolet and comes with a 5-year manufacturer warranty. Haartz Stayfast Canvas: If you're looking to upgrade your vinyl top, consider a Mazda Miata convertible top made of Haartz Stayfast Canvas. This fabric is the American substitute for the German canvases used in Mercedes, Porsche, and BMW. Haartz Stayfast Canvas is a three-ply composite made of an acrylic square weave outer fabric, a butyl rubber core, and a cotton lining. The butyl rubber core promises to make Haartz Stayfast Canvas last a very long time.
This canvas Mazda Miata top is a little richer looking than the vinyl. It's also a little harder to clean. Stayfast Canvas has both better static and dynamic wear ratings than Miata vinyl tops. Do I need new rain rails if I'm replacing my top? The rain rail, or gutter, at the base of the top guides water into drains at the base of the rear wheels.
A new rain rail is required in a top replacement only when the current one is damaged. Most often, you can clean off your original rain rail and apply it to your new top. Keep in mind, the rain rail was originally riveted to the base of the top to facilitate transporting. It is not necessary to rivet the rain rail to the new top as this serves no functional purpose! So, if you need a new rain rail, it's easiest to purchase it separately. Typically, a factory rain rail will last through three or more tops. We offer durable rain rail replacements, as well as an Economy Rain Rail, which functions as well, but is lighter duty.
It's made of thinner vinyl with baseline reinforcement plastic. It should last for two tops. To start shopping.
What do other Mazda Miata owners say about Convertible Top Guys? Just a quick note saying 'thanks' for a great product.
I received my Miata top earlier this week and installed it today. Took me about 7 hours but I've got a super looking top that fits like a glove.
Your instructions are not only very accurate, but supportive in the little details, like keeping hands clean with a light colored top (mine is tan) and using the fork for the clips. I was able to reuse every clip I removed. The construction and material look to be very durable.
I'll recommend your company to my other Miata friends. Ted M., Lenoir, NC Your roof arrived, and I have installed it. Awesome product, everything you said it was. Very happy with the finished product. Chris E., Burlington, Ont. Almost all manufacturers use Haartz fabrics. They may specify 'heaviest weight' or 'original replacement' in ways that seem reassuring.
But they do not really tell the whole story. Please bear in mind that two things dominate, by far, the quality issue: (a) the manufacturing quality control in the factory that makes the top and (b) the care and thoroughness of the installation. There is a trade-off in weight: heavier is better for resisting tear through, but lighter is better for flexibility and abrasion from within that may arise from movement. Almost all our tops are a flexible medium density (36 oz.) fabric. Heavier is not better in most cases. Where it is, because of the top design, we will say so and the top will be made of the heavier vinyl. We will be happy to quote you on a 'true double texture vinyl' top.
This is a pinpoint with a butyl rubber core, like our stayfast. Generally these tops are about 30 percent higher in price than the regular pinpoint version. Sonnenland® is a German-made 3-ply topping made up of an acrylic twill-weave facing, a rubber inner-layer, and a polyester 'dobby backing.' The dobby backing is a knit-like weave original to many high-end foreign cars.
Customers who value originality over cost often pay top dollar for Sonnenland, just to have that authentic 'dobby backing,' seen only when you look up at the roof of your convertible top from inside your car. Sonnenland canvas is a top-of-the-line material original to various Audi, BMW, and Jaguar convertibles, among others. Sonnenland Canvas can vary in terms of surface weave and/or weight for acoustic performance, but all Sonnenland Canvas promises elegance and long-lasting durability. Twillfast®, also called Sonnendeck Canvas, is an American-made canvas - a cost-effective substitute for Sonnenland. Twillfast is usually a 3-ply topping (though some versions are 5-ply) with Polyester and/or Polyester/cotton backings. This material, original to certain Camaro, BMW, Mustang, and VW Beetle convertibles, among others, varies in terms of surface weave and/or weight for acoustic performance. Twillfast Canvas is identical to Sonnenland Canvas - elegant and durable - only it's less expensive.
This is a top-notch convertible top material, one we often recommend to savvy customers who like a good buy and a quality product. Stayfast Canvas is an elegant, durable canvas original to cars like the Mazda Miata and the Nissan 370Z. Stayfast is commonly used in replacement convertible tops. Stayfast canvas has an acrylic square weave facing, a rubber inner-layer, and a cotton backing. As with other canvases, the rubber core gives the fabric long-lasting durability. Stayfast canvas is a sleek, beautiful canvas, usually less expensive than Twillfast, but it does not have the dobby backing offered in Sonnenland and Twillfast (Sonnendeck).
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Stayfast is a popular upgrade to vinyl convertible tops, and as with any canvas, is richer looking and has a higher wear rating than convertible tops made of vinyl. Haartz Pinpoint Vinyl is the most popular fabric. This vinyl design is original to most American cars from the fifties to the nineties. Pinpoint refers to the little dots or pips that you see if you look closely at the vinyl surface. European cars, such as the old Beetles and others also used pinpoint vinyl as the topping fabric.
Chrysler Sailcloth is featured on many late LeBarons, Sebrings, certain Mustangs and other cars. It is structurally (wear quality) equivalent to the Haartz Pinpoint but has a different surface grain. The grain was designed to imitate the look of canvas. As you can see from the scan of this fabric, it is an exceptionally rich looking material.
It is sometimes chosen for replacing convertible tops that originally featured pinpoint vinyl. Cabrio Grain is also structurally equivalent to the pinpoint. It has a pigskin outer grain vinyl as original to Volkswagen Cabriolets from 1984 onward and to Mazda Miatas and Mercury Capris.
A5S German Canvas (Robbins) The 100% Acrylic Twill Weave Surface Cloth receives a special flame singing treatment to remove the fabric knap; and is laminated to Black 100% Polyester Dobby backing. This is the original topping for Porsche Boxster and Cabrio convertible tops. 59 inches (150 cm) wide, made in Germany.
British Bison (also called Colonial Grain) is the American made crush grain vinyl that imitates the much more expensive British Everflex vinyl original to many British convertibles. Color selection is limited.
These are often referred to as 'crush grain' or 'leather grain' vinyls. They are structurally equivalent (wear rating) to the pinpoint, cabrio, and sailcloth vinyls. British Everflex Vinyl We are now pleased to offer British Everflex Vinyl for classic English tops.
This is the original material used on British convertibles including Jaguar, Rolls Royce and many others. Imported from England, British Everflex vinyl is a supple vinyl with a rich appearance and is more durable than other vinyls. A good, less expensive alternative is Colonial grain vinyl. Colonial has the same texture but is less durable. HV Denim (also called Twill Weave Vinyl) is heavy duty sport material composed of a distinctive twill grain PVC outer layer and a polyester/cotton blend inside lining fabric. Trilogy Acoustic Vinyl A heavyweight vinyl that is often used on SUVs like Jeep, because the two-ply composite has the capacity to reduce noise by about 20 percent compared to standard vinyls like Sailcloth. The vinyl material is durable, promises long-lasting wear-and-tear, and resembles the sleek twill cloth commonly found on luxury convertible cars.
Haartz Twillfast RPC This American-made canvas has a twill weave pattern and resembles German-made Sonnenland canvas. It is a great all-purpose canvas and, according to Haartz, is used on 99 percent of convertibles. It is stronger and more durable than Stayfast Canvas and offers more sound protection.
Haartz rates Twillfast RPC as a mid-level acoustic product, compared to the low-level sound reduction offered on other top materials like Stayfast Parts in this category (Mazda Miata and Miata MX-5 Shinsen, 'Easy Install', One Piece Convertible Tops) fit cars for years: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. We a now pleased to offer hydraulic cylinders, hydraulic motor pumps, and hydraulic hose sets for many different convertibles, they will be listed on your cars page if available. Also, checkout our newly added roof rail weatherstripping seals, front header weatherstripping seals, door weatherstripping seals, trunk weatherstripping seals. Look for extra savings on weatherstripping seals kits. We are continuing to grow our convertible related products: These include convertible top latches, tonneau covers, relays, switches, rear tacking rails (trimsticks), seat covers, car covers, and carpeting.
Kent's Miata Convertible Top Installation Installing a Robbins Convertible Top on my 1991 Miata Robbins Part No. 2919 - One Piece Design Non-Heated Glass With Rain Rail (c) K. Russell 2007 Table of Contents. Introduction This write-up describes the installation of a Robbins cloth top with a tinted glass window into my 1991 Miata. The original top had lasted 16 years but the little strips of cloth that are glued to the inside of the top were coming unglued.
I decided to fix up the car, replacing the front-end with a Racing Beat Type II nose, painting the car, installing a security system, a new HD radio, a little engine work, and it certainly needed a new top to complement the rest of the overhaul. I am providing these instructions in order to help others. This is what I did on my car.
Your car, your convertible, and/or your experience may be different. Of course, I am not and will not be responsible for your work or your mistakes. Likewise I will not take credit for your awesome work and beautiful convertible top. Using power tools is dangerous. You shouldn't drill thru your fingers or burn your house down.
Use these instructions at your own risk. I think it might be helpful to first give an overview of the convertible top design. Where the top disappears below the body at the back, behind the back window, the top is attached to a gutter (rain rail) that is used to drain water from the top into drain holes that are in the back corners behind the driver's and passenger's heads. This rain rail is a U-shaped piece of plastic and rubber with the rounded part hanging down to channel the rain. Just in front of the trunk is a molding that goes around where the top is attached.
This molding has a rubber flap that hangs down inside the gutter. The back edge of the U-shaped gutter is inserted under this rubber flap so water will drain into the gutter. The top also is inserted into the gutter. All of these pieces rest on and are attached to studs which make disassembly and assembly more straight-forward. Three curved metal plates push onto the studs and are held on with nuts to hold everything in place.
Here are the parts and instructions that came from Robbins with the replacement top as well as new tension wires. The new tension wires do not come with the top and must ordered separately.
The 2 velcro strips (in the center of the picture) are not used on my 1991 Miata. Also the 'bow end caps' (bottom left) are also not used on my model. Removal of seats and ledge carpet. Remove the seats from the car. The bolts can be very tight and difficult to remove.
I found it useful to use a box wrench and connect another box wrench to its end in order to get more leverage. Go to the store (such as Harbor Freight) and buy a push-type fastener removal tool.
Remove the push-type fasteners that hold the back ledge carpet in place. Be careful not to catch a carpet loop and cause a run in the carpet. There are also 2 blocks with a phillips head bolts that need to be removed. Remove the back ledge carpet from the car. Separating the rain rail from the back of the car and removing the convertible top and frame from the car. Remove the nuts from the 3 frames and remove the frames from the car. Remove the heavy metal 'belt line cover' behind the driver's and passenger's heads.
There is a bolt on the inside (with a snap top) and a phillips head screw that screws right down from the top. Put them in a baggie with the screws, marking where they go and also which is left and which is right.
Remove a second metal 'belt line cover' that is right next to the previous step's piece. It is attached with a plastic push-type fastener. Put them in a baggie with the screws. Remove the rubber cover from the same area.
I then removed the seat belt tower covers by removing the weather stripping that runs along the back of the door and snapping off the large seat belt tower cover. There are a few small plastic pieces to remove as well.
Here you can see the seat belt tower with the cover removed. The 3 bolts on each side that hold the convertible frame are visible as well.
Here is a picture of the seat belt towers from above. Now that the convertible has mostly been separated from the car we are about to lift the convertible top and frame from the car. Make sure the top is raised but disconnected from the front latches. Remove the 3 hinge plate bolts on each side and carefully lift the convertible top from the car. Remember to label and bag the bolts. Removing the convertible top fabric from the frame I should point out that this part, removing the old cloth top, is rather simple and easy. It might seem a little scary at first, but taking stuff apart is pretty easy.
Just be careful to only drill out the rivets that anchor the top fabric and label and bag the parts so that it will be obvious how to reassemble them. The convertible cloth is held in place in the front by a 'set plate' and 7 screws.
Remove the screws and remove the set plate. Bag the screws, tape the bag to the set plate, and set aside. The front rubber is held into place by 2 screws. Remove the 2 screws. The rubber then gently pulls off. This is the front rubber off of the frame.
Mark the rubber and the frame pieces. Unscrew the shiny frame piece too. These shiny frame pieces press the top to the frame and hold it in place. I placed the screws into the holes of the removed pieces and taped them in place. I put all 3 rubbers and all 3 frames from one side and placed them in a large ziplock bag.
The middle rubber piece just pulls off. Ease it off gently. The third rubber has 2 push-type fasteners at one end. The easiest way to access the 2 push-type fasteners is to remove the 2 rivets holding the cloth behind it. Removing these 2 rivets will allow you to pull the cloth away from the area around the push-type fasteners.
To drill out the rivets, pick a 1/4 inch drill and carefully drill away the top of the rivet. Drill out the rivets and pull the cloth away from the end of the third rubber where the push-type fasteners are.
Use a push-type fastener pry tool. Really, just go buy one. The third rubber is now removed and you can see the two push-type fasteners. Notice the cloth is pulled down just behind it. And just below the push-type fasteners is the infamous B-Pillar Retainer!
Now remove the shiny frame under the 3rd rubber. Mark it so you can replace it on the correct side with the correct side facing out. Wow, the wonderful B-Pillar Retainer. Now I finally know what it is, what it is for, and where it goes. Remove the B-Pillar Retainer. It is held in place by a screw in the center hole.
The outside 2 holes are where the push-type fasteners of the third rubber go thru. Mark it as left or right side, and place it in the appropriate left or right side bag o' parts. A close-up of the B-Pillar Retainer. We already removed 2 rivets behind the B-Pillar Retainer. Now drill out the 2 rivets under the 3rd rubber. Fold the top so that the spring is not sprung tight.
Unscrew this screw (located a little below the B-Pillar Retainer) and remove the spring. Replace the screw so that it will not be lost. Remove the 3 rubbers, 3 frames, the B-Pillar Retainer, and the spring from the other side. Now you can remove the cloth from the frame OK, here is where I disagree with every other set of instructions for installing a new top. All the other instructions say to carefully pry the 'listing' slightly away from the bow so that the cloth can be removed. Instead, I separated the cloth strips from the main section of the convertible top and just slid them off of the end of the listings. I un-did the velcro and also tore that strip from the main section of cloth so that it could slide off too.
Used Miata Soft Top
Obviously if you were removing the top, repairing it, and replacing it again, you would not damage the top in this manner. Here is the hole in the frame where the tension wire goes thru. The tension wire usually goes thru the cloth top too but here I am showing it without the top. If you are replacing your tension wires, drill out this rivet to replace the tension wires. One side of mine was broken so it was a good thing I bought new ones.
Here are my bags o' parts. I really did place the parts in large ziplock bags, one for the left and one for the right. The B-Pillar Retainer is in there too.
The front 'set plate' and its bag o' screws which is taped to the 'set plate' are also visible. Installing the straps onto the frames. One of the more difficult things I had to do was to add a strap to each side of the frame. This is only necessary on the 1990-1997 Miatas. The later years already have this modification. The glass window is heavy and these straps make for a smoother top along the back corners to the left and right of the window.
Mazda Miata Soft Top
Also it allows for the 4th bow to move against the 3rd bow when collapsing the top and it pulls the 4th bow back into place when the top is up. Here are the straps. Although the installation instructions make no mention of it, there is a left strap and a right strap. The straps are a bit dark and difficult to see but I have laid them out so that the short straps rest on top of the longer straps. Notice that they are opposites of each other.
One short strap angles left and the other right. To determine which is left and which is right, test install them. To test install each one, slide the strap ends into the listings pulling on the long end of the strap and holding it approximately where it will eventually be attached to the 4th stud from the end. If correctly installed the strap will lie flat and smooth. If incorrectly installed there will be a pucker where the strap leaves bow #4.
This only takes a few seconds so try it both ways and see if becomes obvious which way is right. It might help to see the straps once they are installed on the frame. Next I will show the steps to install the straps on the frame.
I also took a few minutes to wipe down the frame. It was pretty dirty and by cleaning it I keep my hands cleaner and therefore the top cleaner while I am working on it. The bows are numbered 1 thru 4 with bow #1 being the thick front bow and bow #4 is the rearmost bow. Here is a picture of the frame with bow #4 lifted and resting near bow #3. Bow #4 hinges freely and seems to move very low, but once a top is installed it will stay only about 5 1/4 inches behind bow #3. Here is a close-up of bow #3 and the end of one strap. The convertible top frame has bows and the bows have listings.
Listings are the thin metal pieces attached to the bows. Each listing has a lip where its metal edge is folded over. The top material and the straps have edges that are folded over to make a lip. When the lip of the material is pushed between the bow and the listing, the lips interlock.
In this picture you can see the lip on the listing and the lip on end of the strap. The straps need to be riveted to the bows. In order to install the straps, it is necessary to drill holes in the listings and bows. Before I go thru the steps to accomplish this task, perhaps it will help to show an example of what we are trying to do. This picture shows how it will look when one strap is riveted to one bow. Next I will go thru the steps to install the straps onto the frame. I had to drill holes for the rivets that will hold the straps to the bows and listings.
The holes are drilled though the listing and thru one side of the bow. The strap fits between the bow and the listing and a rivet compresses all 3 together. The holes are 5/32' in diameter and are 3/16ths and 13/16ths of an inch from the end edge of each listing. This makes the holes 5/8 of an inch away from each other. Here I wrapped the bow and listing with tape so that I could make a pencil mark where I needed to drill.
The tape is applied right at the end of the listing so that I could measure back 3/16ths and 13/16ths of an inch and mark it. Look below when the tape is removed to see how the listing really looks.
I used a center punch to start the placement of the holes. Be gentle, the metal is very soft. While I was using the center punch I placed a piece of metal between the listing and the bow so the listing would not pinch against the bow. The metal is very soft and easy to drill. Remember, drill thru the listing and thru one side of the bow, aiming toward the center of the bow. I centered the holes in the listing, not side to side obviously since those measurements are given above, but in the height of the listing similar to the larger holes to the left of where I was working. This picture shows the holes.
You can even see the hole in the listing and the hole in the bow just behind it. Check the size of the hole by test fitting a rivet (DO NOT INSTALL THE RIVET YET). I had to enlarge the hole slightly but I did not use the next larger drill as that would have been too much. After drilling I cleaned up the metal shavings. I next fit the strap into the listing and marked onto the strap where the holes were located. Here you can see the markings I made on the strap using a silver Sharpie.
I then removed the strap and made a hole in the strap by heating a nail and melting the hole in the strap. Here I am heating up a nail. I used a box to press into so that I would not melt my countertops and get divorced. I am sure the fumes should not be inhaled. The hole was VERY EASY to melt into the strap.
Be careful and go easy here. Use a rivet to make sure the holes are the correct size. Also, there is already a single hole burned thru the end of the strap where the strap will press onto a stud. In order to check that it will fit, take the strap, walk outside to you car, and press the strap onto the stud where it will eventually be placed.
In my case, the hole was not large enough. Determine if you need to enlarge the hole and if so, use the red hot nail trick to enlarge it now while it is easy to work with. Here are a couple of the holes I made. Install the straps into the listings and install rivets to clamp the straps between the bow and the listing.
Make sure you drill all 8 holes and mark and melt all 8 holes in the straps before installing any rivets. Remember that the straps are not identical. There is a left strap and a right strap.
IMPORTANT: Install all the rivets in bow #4 before installing any rivets in bow #3 since it will be easier to work on bow #4 with the strap free of bow #3. Installing rivets. Straps are installed.
I hope this makes it easy to visualize how the bows, listings, straps, and rivets all fit together. Replacing the tension wires. I previously drilled out the existing (and broken) tension wire. I had to drill the hole very slightly for the new rivet to fit. There are 2 large rivets in the package to use for installing this. The tension wires are not identical as there is a left and a right.
I placed the smooth side of the metal tab down so that the smooth sides would mate and would make a tight rivet connection. Replacing the convertible top fabric onto the frame To reinstall the fabric onto the frame I first spread the top out flat with the inside facing up. I then placed the frame on top of the fabric. Next I threaded the tension wire thru the channel in the top.
Thread the spring and wire thru the hole in the frame and attach the spring to the screw on the frame. Now attach the fabric to the b-pillars. To make it easier, fold up the frame a bit and bring bow #4 next to bow #3. This is a little difficult since the fabric must be stretched pretty tight in order to get the fabric pockets to go over the metal tabs at the ends of the b-pillars. Here you can see the fabric installed over the b-pillars. Next, you will want to install the b-pillar retainers. Then, you want to install 2 rivets in the plastic edge that will be under frame #3 and rubber #3.
Also, install 2 rivets to attach the material just behind the bottom of the b-pillar. This picture is of the left side so it may look backward. Install silver frames #2 and #3 and install the rubbers over those. There will be markings on the frame where the screws were aligned originally.
Install all the screws loosely and adjust the frame so it is positioned as it was originally. There is a flap of fabric that goes under the #1 silver frame and rubber. This strap has a hole for where the front screw goes into the #1 silver frame. Line up this flap and screw it down with the silver frame.
Also, here I am gluing the corner. The instructions say to use some special glue. The stores around here don't carry that glue so I bought a small bottle of 'Weldwood Contact Cement' for about $3.00. Here I am putting contact cement on the frame and on the back of the front half of the flap mentioned above.
With contact cement the idea is to spread cement on the areas to be glued, in this case both the frame and the back of the flap of fabric. Then you let the glue dry for 10 minutes to 60 minutes and when you press them together they are stuck forever. This isn't very forgiving. The idea is to make sure you know exactly what you want to do and do it right the first time.
Next I spread cement on the front corner and on the back of the fabric, waited 3 minutes (not as patient as I was a few sentences ago, huh?) and pressed down the front corner. I then installed the front rubber #1.
Next I used contact cement on the frame and on the corner of the fabric. I glued up to and maybe just a hair past the first screw on the front set plate. Again, be sure you know what you want to do and then glue it.
It is a little difficult to know how much of the edge of the fabric to glue. Even if you install the set plate and straighten the folding top, the fabric will not be pulled tight. The resistance in closing the top comes from the tension wire and spring and is not because the fabric is being pulled tight. Anyway, I applied glue to the frame and the underside of the fabric, waited a few minutes, and pressed them together. Here is what it looks like after gluing down the corner and installing rubber #1.
At this point I was done installing the fabric onto the frame. The finished top with fabric installed. My back hurts a bit too much from sitting on the floor and reaching over the top so I will attach it to the car tomorrow. Reinstallation of the frame with the new fabric back into the car Here is the back ledge before the frame is reinserted into the car.
While off the car, extend and lock the top as if the top were in the 'up' position. With a helper, place the top onto the car.
There are 2 posts on each side of the car just behind the seats and on the outside of the seat belt towers. The convertible top frame has 2 indentations that fit over these posts.
The posts are threaded and may not seem like posts. When the top rests on these posts, the 3 bolt holes will line up ready for the bolts to go in. Put in the 3 bolts on each side and tighten them up. The picture shows the top latched to the front. Make sure the top is unlatched before going on to the next step. Place the little foam stud seals on the studs. Next place the rain rail onto the studs.
The Robbins rain rail is made out of wonderfully flexible rubbery material. This is a huge improvement over the factory hard plastic rain rail that cracks if you even look at it. Install the strap onto the stud right after the first (outside) stud seal. This means you have to bend the rain rail slightly. If you didn't follow the instructions many, many steps ago, you may find that the hole the factory put in the end of the strap is not big enough to push the stud thru. If you need to enlarge it, you can use a soldering iron to melt the hole a bit bigger.
As you place the rain rail onto the studs you must make sure that the rubber flap on the belt line hangs down inside the rain rail. This may require a helper. You may have to remove the rain rail off the studs and try again. At this point many people comment that they cannot push it all together.
I decided to temporarily screw on the nuts to help compress the rain rail to the studs. It also helps to do this on a hot day when the rain rail is very soft and flexible. I was careful not to over tighten the nuts and strip the threads. I removed the nuts and placed the stud seals on the studs. I attached the metal frames onto the studs and tightened them according to the diagrams provided. Since the frames are curved and tightening down one stud may affect the others, it is very important to tighten them as described in the documentation that came withe the top. I was careful not to over tighten the nuts and strip the threads.
Here it is installed but it is so tight I cannot latch it. I have it in the sun to warm up and hopefully it will stretch. Completed Pics (Although if you look closely you will see that the belt line covers have not been replaced yet.) For two or three days I left the top unattached and put a half dozen books on the front edge to help stretch it out.
IMPORTANT: I adjusted the latches so that they would be as loose as possible. This is so easy to do with no tools, just my fingers. I just pressed the hinged barrel nut holder out of the way. Then I twisted the latch to make it longer and pressed the hinged barrel nut holder back into place. After three days of letting it stretch with the books on top I latched the top but did not tighten the latches. It took three people to help me latch the top. Again, I did not press the latches closed.
I left the car in the garage for a few days so that the top would stretch. I drove the car to work (I drove slowly and held on to the top) and let it sit in the hot sun. By the end of just one day the top was much less tight. The next morning I pressed the latches closed and drove it to work to sit in the sun.
Now I can latch and unlatch it as I wish. Top is done, the car is shiny.
Here is a shot from the back. Here it is from the side. I hope this helps someone else. At the time that I did this I could not find any websites with pictures and instructions for installing this new one piece top design with the straps that require modifying the bows. If I did something wrong or if there is a better way to do something or if you just want to comment on these instructions, please use the email at the top of the page. I would love to hear from you.
I hope I can spare somebody else some of the agony I went through replacing the top on my 1995 Mazda Miata. Tip #1: Don’t do it. I’m serious – take it to a pro. I installed a top on my old MG, and I’m fairly handy, so I figured I could handle this. Well, I did, but I still regret doing it.
It took me a whole weekend and 4 weeknights, over 26 hours I reckon. It was VERY difficult, especially for just one person. You will also need special glue, a soldering iron, rivet gun and a whole slew of the usual other tools. If you’ve already bought a top, it’s not too late: call a top shop.
They will probably have it done in one day. You certainly won’t. Still want to do it yourself? OK, you masochist! Tip #2: Make sure you have plenty of high-powered lights, tools, extra rivets, a large and small pry bar, and extra metric bolts.
LOTS of time. Have another car to drive for a few days, or at least have no rain! Have a helper ready or on call. Get the garage plenty warm, so the vinyl on the top will be easier to work with. If you didn’t order the top with a pre-attached rain rail, you are obviously insane. I did, so I can’t help you on that bit. Tip #3: Download, save, and follow Kent‘s install doc (available ).
Kent’s very helpful doc was not quite 100% accurate for my ’95 Miata, but way better than that sad excuse for an install doc that Robbins gives you. Due to that doc, the not-quite-there manufacturing, and high cost ($505 for the “budget” top with glass window) I really can’t recommend Robbins. Important: You may not want to, but take a break whenever you run into trouble. This will clear your head and give you a fresh perspective. Tip #4: Before starting, remove the passenger seat. Some say take them both out, but you don’t need to, and they are not exactly easy to remove. One seat out will leave you plenty of room.
Plus, you may need to drive your Miata in or out of the garage, right? That would be tough to do standing up! BTW: if you have headrest speakers installed in the seats of your older Miata, either unplug them (if that's an option), or cut the speaker wires in a location that will be easy to tie them back together later. Tip #5: You do want to take the top assembly (frame) off the car.
I know some folks advocate leaving it on to install the new top. Those folks are not your friends. Ustad bismillah khan.
That idea will work until you get to the bottom of the B-pillar assembly. You have to drill out the rivets there and install new rivets, and it is pretty much impossible to do it with the assembly mounted to the car.
Take it off, it’s not that hard. Getting it back on is when you will need a helper.
Tip #6: As you begin to disassemble the top, pay very close attention to where each bolt and piece comes from for the reassembly, esp. The top’s rubber moldings. Mark the moldings well for side of car, and position. It couldn’t hurt to take pictures as you disassemble to jog your memory later. Tip #7: Use a large pry small pry bar to pull out the plastic carpet fasteners, and a small one for the smaller fasteners (such as on the rubber door absorbers). After many years the fasteners tend to be brittle and break easily, even with the right tool.
There’s no need to pull the carpet out, just drape it over behind the seat. Tip #8: When you get to the B-pillar area, tightly warp a towel around each B-pillar to catch any dropped bolts. After removing the carpet, remove the trim around the b-pillars.
Then remove the 3 bolts that attach the convertible top frame and carefully pull the frame off the car. It’s not heavy unless you have a glass window. Drill out the 2 rivets on each side of the top near/behind the B-pillar, remove the B-pillar retainer clip with its one screw, and then drill out the 2 rivets underneath it. At this point you should have the actual vinyl top off of the frame, and can start installing the new top. B-pillar retainer brackets. I was fortunate that I had them on my 1995 Miata, but apparently earlier models don’t have them. Yes, you need them, and yes $25 is an outrageous rip-off for a simple piece of steel part that cost well under a buck to make.
Hey, I TOLD you take it to the top shop! Robbins top problems: for the top dollar (yuk) that they charge, you would think Robbins would have all the manufacturing details together. As Kent noted in his doc, the hole for the webbing straps (for pre-1999 Miatas) are all too small. Tip #9: Widen the holes with a soldering iron – make sure the holes are a little bigger than the studs so they move easily.
Don’t presume, try them all on. The worst problem for me was the holes in the new Robbins top (where it needs to be riveted to the bottom of the B-pillar) were too large. This meant the provided rivets went right through the holes and were useless at holding the top to the B-pillar bottom. This almost put a stop to my installation, and I considered sending the top back. Instead, I tried short bolts on one side which (kind of) worked, but were a real PITA to mount. The workaround ( Tip #10) was to take another piece of vinyl (from the old top, in my case), and punch the rivet through that. This way, the rivet goes through the new vinyl piece, then the top’s vinyl, then through the hole, exiting (and attaching) out the other side of the hole.
The second major problem I had was dropping bolts and losing them. Ok, I’m a klutz – but if you have a black Miata you may want to consider painting the bolts around the B-pillar area day-glow or white when you remove them. They have a tendency to fall into the hardest places to reach around the B-pillar and getting lost.
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Sometimes they fall out the drain hole. Sometimes they simply disappear into a black hole and are never seen again. This was VERY frustrating for me, as (naturally) I couldn’t find any exact replacement bolts in my cans of bolts I have for occasions such as these. Tip #11: Speaking of the drain holes, stick a coat hanger down them to make sure they are clear while you’re in the area. Continue through the rest of Kent’s directions, but you don’t have to actually attach the top to the front bow at this point if you don’t want to. The tension cables: You should have have a helper for this part. You may need someone to pull the spring portion down, while you screw it back in to the top frame – tough to do yourself.
If the cables look badly frayed or are broken, now is the time to replace them. Reinstalling the moldings: they come out easily, but don’t go back in so easily. Tip #12: Spray the rubber moldings lightly with WD-40 and slide them in from one end.
Note how one side is grooved and fits into the molding while the other overlaps the molding. I found that installing the middle (#2 molding) first works best. Then install the bottom (#3) molding.
This part, for me, was also quite a pain, as it was VERY tough to line up the metal molding holder, the top’s punched holes, and the (naturally) black screw holes in the top frame. Tip #13: I ended up using a nail to find the holes, line them up, and then temporarily duct taped the metal molding holders to the top frame until I got them screwed in. The front (#1) molding gets installed after you attach the top to the front bow. Tip #14: Prepare the top for reinstall by covering both sides of the windows with thick paper or cloth. I kept a towel on the exposed back of the Miata where the carpet was.
Top frame reinstall: This stumped me for a few minutes, and apparently other people too from what I've read online. Somehow my frame bottom must have got turned around or compressed, and the frame bolt holes didn’t line up with the body.
If this happens to you, pull the frame back out and open it all the way. Make sure that the top front bolt hole at the bottom is directly above the bottom bolt hole. Then, mount the frame in the B-pillars again, and screw in each side of the top frame to the body.
After this, you’re finally getting close to the end. Attach the top to the front bow if you haven’t already. Like Kent, I used contact cement for this part, as I couldn’t find the specified 3M glue anywhere either. After waiting a while for the glue to dry, attach the #1 (front) molding. Check that all the moldings fit OK when the top is open or closed. Kent’s doc starts getting sparse at this point. You can now put together the trim around the B-pillars.
Then comes the rear of the top – put the foam washers provided by Robbins onto the studs all around the rear. Then put the top’s ABS rain rail over the studs. It will be uncooperative at first but eventually will “settle” into its place. You now need to install the 3 metal retainer brackets (that the plastic carpet clips snap into) onto the studs. This section was a real head-scratcher for me. Neither Kent’s doc nor the horrid Robbins doc mentions the order of installation from here on.
Note that the webbing straps need to go onto the 4 th stud from the end on each side – but is it before or after the metal retainer bracket is mounted on the stud?! I guessed before. The problem is that now it starts getting very hard for the stud to hold the washer, rain rail, metal bracket, another washer, and the stud nut. My solution ( Tip #15): Skip the outside washer on the center (rear) stud, and screw that on to temporarily hold the rain rail in place.
Then screw on the nuts to the outside bolts first (next to the B-pillars), then to the web strap bolts, then the rest. If you have a helper handy to press in the rain rail, etc., while screwing down the nuts, lucky you! You may have to forego using the outside washers if you can’t squeeze them on.
No big deal, since the Miata didn’t come with them originally and I’m sure it will survive without them. I, too, had problems with the top not closing initially.
Tip #16: Let the Miata sit in the hot sun for a few hours, and then have a friend help you pull the top closed and latch it. Leave it like that for a few days, then it will be stretched out enough to close normally. Finally, I reattached the carpet, put the seat back, and had a beer to celebrate that this ordeal was over.
Am I proud of my job? Yes, it looks pretty good! Am I glad that I saved $500 on an install? What a PITA – never again, thank you. Thanks to Kent Russell for his help! Mick Seeley [email protected] April 2010.
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